OSW

SIGNATURE WORK
CONFERENCE & EXHIBITION 2022

Vestments of Empire: Modernity, Ethnicity and National Dress in Republican Era China

Name

Hao Tan

Major

Global Cultural Studies, World History

Class

2022

About

I'm a researcher of global cultural studies and world history. My research interests focus on the intellectual history of early 20th-century China.

Signature Work Project Overview

Previous studies have documented the rapid and intense changes in Chinese clothing and fashion in the late Qing and early Republican periods. Meanwhile, recent attention has also been paid to the contemporary ‘Hanfu movement’ in China. Few studies, however, have considered the revival of Han clothing in the early 20th century, a short counter trend that sought to restore Han-style Chinese clothing from the Ming period that had been ‘lost’ during the two and half centuries of Manchu rule. By extensive analysis of several printed memoirs and dozens of archived newspaper articles, this paper shows that prominent figures such as Zhang Taiyan wore traditional clothing as a way of symbolizing their support for the restoration of Han Chinese sovereignty. Similarly, the practice was also documented as increasingly widespread among ordinary people at the time. My findings on this early 20th-century Hanfu movement provide important new insights into the political practice of dress, drawing on a persistent genealogy dating to the Northern Song and its transformation in contemporary China today.

Signature Work Presentation Video